Riding the Santa Cruz Swell

A surfer in a black wetsuit carves along the face of a large green wave in Santa Cruz, California, leaving a spray of water behind.

More than a decade ago, I spent some time in Santa Cruz along with the rest of Automattic for the Grand Meetup that year. I’ve already posted a few sunrise photos on the beach, but these photos of surfers riding the waves have been in my TODO folder for a long time.


Apertureƒ/4
CameraCanon EOS 6D
Focal length105mm
ISO100
Shutter speed1/2000s

The Black Surfer

A surfer rides the waves at Garretstown in early January this year. I’m not sure how many were out there but we talked to one wet and cold looking one when he came out of the water and he told us they had been there for a few hours.

The heavens opened and rain fell shortly after. Only the surfers were left out in the open.

Donal has a good post about exposure. Donal, you should read Understanding Exposure: How to Shoot Great Photographs with a Film or Digital Camera by Bryan Peterson. I’ll lend you my copy if you want. It’s a great read.

Aperture ƒ/6.3
Camera Canon EOS 20D
Focal length 200mm
ISO 800
Shutter speed 1/125s