The Atlantic was absolutely hammering Clogher Beach when I got down there a few weeks ago. A proper winter swell rolling in through the gap between the headlands, each wave stacking up and throwing that incredible translucent green you only get when the light catches the water from behind. An Fear Marbh sat out there…

On a calm day you can sit on Clogher Beach and see An Fear Marbh lying peacefully on the horizon, its profile supposedly resembling a body laid out in repose. On a day like this, though, you’re lucky to see it at all. The swell was stacking up in layers, each wave tall enough to…